In today's world the last thing that a homeowner wants to see is an unsightly pest in their home. Although cleanliness is essential in controlling pests, they can still invade the most sanitary of homes and establish residence.
                                  

Your Alley's professional will conduct a
thorough inspection of the premises
and will provide a customized service to
specifically meet your needs. In
ALLEY'S Integrated Pest Management
Program, or IPM as it is called, ALLEY'S
utilizes baits, traps, and crack and
crevice treatments for the inside, while
doing a thorough outside perimeter
treatment to prevent those pests from
entering your home. After gaining
control of the problems, ALLEY'S will return on a monthly or
quarterly basis to prevent the problem from re-occurring.

Monthly Service

What is a monthly service? A Monthly Service is a maintenance program that will reduce or eliminate most insect and rodent types.

Why target pests are treated Monthly? Because most commercial businesses have some type of external situation which can bring in such pests as cockroaches or rodents from the outside. Infestations can be eliminated, but maintenance is a necessity whether on a monthly basis or weekly basis.

Why do you need a Monthly Service?  Distributors bring in new stock on a regular basis Workers bring in products and items from home.

Turnover in tenants

Tenants may reintroduce pests by frequenting some stores.

What does the Monthly Service cover?

Pavement Ants, Carpenter Ants, Earwigs, Grain Beetles, Indian Meal Moths, Hornets, Bees & Wasps Silverfish, Cockroaches, Crickets, Mice, Rats, Fleas, Carpet Beetles

When are treatments scheduled? Usually during normal business hours 7:30 am through 5:00 pm - Monday - Friday. Night maintenance programs are available to customers with this need at an additional charge.

Quarterly Service Program

Winter: December, January, February

Pre-emergent pest control, stops insects from nesting in voids before they hatch and emerge into the house, Apply monitors for stored grain pests, Inspect for rodent activity

Spring: March, April, May

Placement of repellent material at entry points to prevent pest entry

Perimeter treatment, Check for rodent activity, Check monitors

Summer: June, July, August

Pest maintenance - outside power spray (if permissible), Check attic and treat common areas (bath, storage, etc.), Check monitors

Fall: September, October, November

Heavy concentration on inside treatment with moderate outside treatment to prepare for winter months.

Check for openings, Rodent proof, Check monitors

Home Brewed Pest Control

There are many ways to reduce pesticide use in the home and garden. From home mixtures to introducing beneficial species, all is possible for the home gardener. This brochure will concentrate on non-toxic home remedies for insects and other pests. It will also provide pointers for those who wish to access more advanced information about species introduction or other forms of non-toxic pesticide control.

Spray bottle cures: Non-toxic pesticide sprays that can be made from ingredients readily available in the home.

Less Toxic Steps
 

INTRODUCTION

Gardeners often call the Agriculture and Extension Education Division office when they have seen
something unusual among their plants, something that alarms them. Unfortunately, some people
react first by reaching for a pesticide, mixing it, often double-strength, and spraying like crazy. All too often, no pesticide was needed. It was a case of "mistaken identity."

The thing that alarmed them might have been a beneficial insect, a harmless creature, or a perfectly
natural growth. But by spraying, they may have done damage-putting the environment, beneficial
insects, and possibly themselves at risk. So how do we avoid making these mistakes? We will learn
how to use I.P.M. to combat problems in our gardens and homes. At the end of this presentation we
will summarize the easy steps of this technique and show how each and every gardener can do
something to prevent future problems for the environment.

This chapter will first point out some of the most common mistaken identities, reviewing what they
are and what they are not. Secondly, it will address some of the problems found in local landscapes
and around the home. Finally, the chapter will identify the most common insect pests - the ones you
are likely to see in your home and yard, compare them to beneficial or harmless insects, and explain
how to tell them apart. The steps involved in least-toxic pest management will be summarized,
explaining exactly what to do when there is a problem in your home or garden. 

Our goal is not to convince you that you must put up with roaches in your kitchen. Rather, it is to teach you what you can do to control them in ways that do not impact negatively on the environment. We want you to think of chemical control as an option which is available to you, but which should be used only after other control options have been exercised. We want to identify the chemical controls which are the least toxic to the environment. 

MISTAKEN IDENTITIES

"Scouting" is the first task that gardeners should get into the habit of performing. Scouting is simply taking a walk in the yard. Walking around the yard every week and getting to know what your plants actually look like and how they grow is an important step in gardening. In order to know when there is something wrong with a plant, you have to know what it looks like when it is healthy.

Spanish moss and ball moss on trees are good examples of mistaken identities. People complain
that these are killing their trees because they increase as the tree declines. Research has shown us
that neither Spanish moss nor ball moss parasitize trees. The tree thins out and dies of stress
(usually root damage or disease), and the mosses proliferate at the same time, because they enjoy
the increasing sunlight. These plants are epiphytes, which means that they derive all their nutrients
and water from the air, not from the plants to which they are attached. Both are members of the
Bromeliad family. The only time you'd want to remove epiphytes is if they are so thick that they are
shading leaves or breaking branches. Spanish moss will sometimes do that.

Another example is ground mosses. Ground mosses grow when a lawn thins out due to low vigor,
excessive moisture, or excessive shade. This gelatinous alga did not kill the grass; it simply moved
in as the lawn grass declined.

Some plant parts might be mistaken as a pest. For example, ferns have reproductive structures
called sori on their lower leaf surfaces which look a lot like scale insects. Glossy privet stems have
lenticels which might be mistaken for insects--they are actually corky structures which function in gas exchange, and therefore perfectly normal. Some other corky outgrowths occur on stems and are perfectly normal for certain plants. In Florida, they are seen on Sweetgum and Winged Elm. Some plants have other bark characteristics which can be mistaken for problems. Examples are the
peeling or exfoliating outer bark layer of Riverbirch (north Florida) and Gumbo Limbo, Eucalyptus
and Melaleuca; the blotchy look of Crape Myrtles and Guavas, and a large number of other plants
found here in south Florida. This is by no means an exhaustive list of all of the common instances of mistaken identities. Please refer to the section "Helpful or Harmful?"; many beneficial insects are
illustrated there. Pay special notice to the section in which certain beneficials are placed beside the
harmfuls with which they are often confused.

The following are often mistaken for pest damage, but cannot be cured by applying pesticides.

Leaves turn yellow (hibiscus, gardenia) due to nutrient deficiency and soil conditions. Leaves
drop in large numbers in Spring (live oak) due to deciduous nature of live oak trees 
White spots on African Violet leaves cold water damage 
Sunscald on tomato fruit 
Tipburn on ligustrum--due to root damage or transplanting 
Galls, swollen areas on leaves or stems, are harmless 
Emerging palm frond--damaged by wind or fertilizer 
Thorn or spine damage on fruit or leaves (Holly) 
Weed-eater damage to small trees 
Dog damage (Junipers; lawn grass) 
Sapsucker (woodpecker) damage 
Citrus rust mite damage can be controlled, but there is no need to do so under home growing
conditions because the damage is superficial. 

RECOMMENDED CONTROLS 

Before listing the pests, let's discuss some of the recommended controls:

For Weeds: 

OLD-FASHIONED METHODS: Use physical methods such as hoeing, hand pulling, using
monofilament line trimmers. Pull weeds before they set seed. 

For Pests:

SOAPS --- Soaps act on many damaging insect pests, including aphids, squash bug nymphs,
leafhoppers, and thrips. When we recommend soap & water, we're talking about "insecticidal soap," which is a commercially-available product. Just ask for it by name where you buy your other garden supplies. You can also make these for yourself by mixing a mild liquid dish soap with water.

But it is important that you test your mixture to determine if it is safe for the plants you plan to treat.
Before you spray any plants, test your mixture by spraying a little on a few leaves of the plant. If, after a day or two, the mixture does not burn the plant, your mixture should be safe. It's a good idea to avoid spraying soap onto plants while the sun is shining directly on them, so do it early or late in the day. 

INSECTICIDAL OILS --- Oil sprays suffocate insects. They are not selective in their action, so
overuse may have detrimental effects on beneficial insects. Insecticidal oils are usually sold as
"horticultural oil" or "dormant oil," or "summer oil." If you spray oil onto plants during the warm part of the year, you have to be careful not to make the mixture too strong. Check the label for the "summer strength." You can also make this at home. 

COMBINE INSECTICIDAL SOAPS AND OILS --- You will often get the best results by combining oil
and soap. If you were using chemical insecticides, it absolutely would not be safe to mix two
chemicals together unless the label tells you to use the products that way. It is, however, safe to mix
oil and soap. You start with the safe soap you mixed and tried out, then add the appropriate amount
of oil for the amount of water you're using. You will find that the soap will help the oil stick to the
plants. Be sure to also check this oil + soap mixture for safety before spraying the whole plant, and
spray early or late in the day.

BACILLUS THURINGIENSIS (B.t.) --- B.t. stands for Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium which attacks
caterpillars. There are also other B.t. strains available which attack other garden pests. When this
product is sprayed on plants and is eaten by insects, it is as if a disease has started. They stop
feeding soon after exposure, and die within a few days. B.t. is available under that name, or as a
powder or a liquid. There may be other trade names for it.

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH --- Diatomaceous earth is the remains of ancient one-celled plants. The
remains are silicate (the material in sand and glass), and sharp, like needles and broken glass. It
punctures the insects, especially the breathing system, and causes them to dry out. You want the
"natural-grade," or "agricultural grade" of diatomaceous earth. Don't use the type sold for use in
swimming pools; it contains free silica, which can be harmful.

PYRETHRINS --- Pyrethrin or pyrethrins is an extract from the African daisy called painted daisy or
Pyrethrum. It is a natural product made in the plant much as nicotine, another natural insecticide, is
made in tobacco plants. Pyrethrin is useful against fleas, especially since fleas have become
resistant to the synthetic products formerly used to control them. Refer to the label, because this
natural product is useful against other pests in and around the home.

INSECT GROWTH REGULATORS --- Pills or drops which contain Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs)
are also available for flea control. The IGRs end up in the blood stream of the pet, and female fleas
that feed on the blood lay eggs that will not hatch. This is most successful when used on pests which rarely go outside.

INSECT TRAPS --- Insect traps can use color or odors to attract a particular insect species to sticky
cards. They can be used for spotted cucumber beetles. Yellow plastic dish pans filled with soapy
water may be used to attract some aphids. Some traps use chemical bait to attract insect species.
These chemicals lure pests to a sticky trap because either the pests mistake the smell for food or a
potential mate (pheromone- baited traps).

NEMATODES --- Commercially available beneficial nematodes - tiny insect-attacking worms - attack
several insects, including some garden pests. These nematodes are not to be confused with
plant-parasitic nematodes which harm garden and landscape plants. According to the article,
"Reducing Insecticide Use in the Home Garden", published by Iowa State University, ..."beneficial
nematodes enter an insect and release a symbiotic bacterium inside the insect. The bacterium
multiplies and kills the insect host within two days. The nematode then feeds and reproduces within
the dead insect." Nematodes are excellent for combating larval cutworms, fleas and chinch bugs in
the garden. They provide a safe alternative to insecticides and are available in an inactive form. They are activated with water and release at night following rain or watering. As much as 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of water may be necessary to wash the nematodes through the grass and into the soil.

BENEFICIAL INSECTS --- The use of natural enemies to suppress insect pest outbreaks is termed
"biological control". Natural enemies are called beneficials because they aid in controlling insect
pests. Beneficial insects are classified into two major groups: Predators and Parasites. Predators
attack, kill and eat prey. Parasites lay eggs in or on a host which later hatch. Bacteria, fungi and
viruses invade the host and cause disease. These are a third group of beneficial organisms called
Pathogens

DRY ICE TRAPS --- Ticks are attracted to hosts when they detect carbon dioxide. This can be
utilized by designing a carbon dioxide tick trap. This control method is recommended by many
Integrated Pest Management information sources, but it's effectiveness has not been proven by
research. It may be an interesting technique to try.

Directions to Make Your Own Dry Ice Tick Trap: (from APC)

Find a covered ice bucket or other Styrofoam container measuring six by six by 12 inches. 
Cut four 3/4 inch holes in the sides near the bottom to allow the dry ice to vaporize outward and
attract ticks. 
Drop 2 lbs. of dry ice into the bucket. It will last about 3 hours and most ticks within a 75 square
foot area will be captured within 3 hours. 
Place the dry ice-filled container over a piece of plywood. Place masking tape, sticky-side-up
on the plywood and attached it with a stapler around the perimeter. The dry ice will attract ticks
and the tape will catch them. Remove the masking tape as it catches the ticks and replace it. 

HELPFUL OR HARMFUL?

Of the almost one million species of insects known, only about l/l0th of l% are serious pests. The
remainder either help us by destroying the damaging organisms or they are neutral--they simply
coexist with us and are neither helpful nor harmful. Excessive or unwise use of pesticides, especially chemical insecticides, is more likely to eliminate or reduce the numbers of a harmless or beneficial creature than one that does damage. An important step in insuring a healthy environment within your garden, and lessening the negative impacts that your practices have on the outside environment, is to learn to distinguish between actual pests and beneficial insects.

BENEFICIAL INSECTS

The following are some of the most common beneficial insects seen in and around homes and
gardens in NE Texas:

The Convergent Lady Beetle Is shown eating aphids One of the most common, found from Canada
to South America. Sold by insectaries for aphid control 

Lacewings (some call trash bugs) Only the larvae are active predators with prominent pincers. 

Black Widow Spider is one of the poisonous spiders in southern Florida.Although considered a
nuisance by homeowners, most spiders are beneficial and prey on mites, aphids and other insects.

Parasitic Wasp Is shown stinging a nymph. These are parasites which control problem insects. There are both big and little types

Praying Mantids Eat many pest insects.

Wheel Bug, a type of assassin bug. Feeds on many pests.  Wheel bugs are named for the half wheel
on their backs.

Assassin Bugs Nymphs lie in wait of prey; and are likely to attack small flying insects. They are
common predators in gardens.

Ambush Bugs Preys on many insect pests.

Predaceous Stinkbugs Three predaceous species. This stinkbug is shown feeding on a caterpillar.

Syrphid Fly Also known as a Hover fly, they resemble bees. The larval stage preys on aphids and
small caterpillars.

Damselflies Feed on aquatic insects like mosquitoes, and midges.

Dragon Flies or Mosquito Hawks Feed on aquatic insects.

Polites Wasps or Paper Wasps Paper wasps, also known as Mud Daubers, parasitize caterpillars.

SUMMARY

Now that you understand the difference between beneficial and harmful pests, you can keep a clean, pest- free home while using pesticides responsibly. Remember our goals: "least-toxic pest management", also known as "integrated pest management" (IPM).

The idea behind these concepts is to use a range of available options to reduce pest problems in
your home and garden to an acceptable level. Those options include: picking up the bug, dropping it on the ground and stepping on it; not growing the plant if it is always covered with bugs or bug
damage; and using chemical controls. By considering all control measures available, and utilizing the least toxic (yet effective) means, you have implemented Integrated Pest Management.

Some alternatives to killing the pests include:

1.Mechanical Controls - An example is screens which keep mosquitoes out of the house. 
2.Cultural Controls - This would include growing plants when the pests are not around or growing
the plants so well that they can outgrow the small amount of damage caused by a few insects. 
3.Biological Controls - For example, encouraging natural diseases of pest insects, or introducing
good insects that destroy the pest insects. There are also some things which occur naturally in
nature which we can use to control pest insects. For example, microorganisms which cause
disease on pest insects. Or naturally-occurring products like plant oils or pyrethrin, which we
extract from an African daisy called Pyrethrum. 

If these control methods are not effective, the next step is to consider the use of synthetic or chemical insecticides. During consideration, the user should identify those insecticides which, when improperly used, cause damage to the environment, and those which cause very little environmental damage.

Steps to be taken in pest management resulting in the least possible damage to the environment:

1.Choose the right plant for the site, and keep it healthy. Choose one that is adapted to the
climate and to the location of the yard where it will be planted. If the site is boggy, and the plant
requires a well-drained site, the site should be changed to suit the plant or a plant should be
chosen that is adapted to the site. After the right plant has been chosen, plant it well and grow it
well. That includes all cultural measures such as watering and fertilizing. Too much water and
fertilizer can make a plant more attractive to pests. A plant will be more resistant to both insect
pests and diseases if it is grown and cared for correctly. 
2.Walk around and get to know your yard and your plants. This is called scouting or monitoring.
Observe how the plants look when they are healthy and growing well. This will enable you to
know when something is wrong or at least different. 
3.Identify the suspected pest. Be sure that it is not a beneficial or neutral animal, or some natural,
harmless growth. If you determine that it is a pest, take no action to control it. Just observe it. 
4.Continue to observe the pest. Increase the frequency of the inspections. Determine whether the
damage is getting worse, staying the same, or being reduced by some natural control. 
5.Determine if the damage is acceptable. Plants do not have to be perfect. Light damage will
usually not harm the plant. Learn to accept some damage, and learn to accept a few bugs in
the yard, even if they are doing some damage. Some damage is natural and should be
expected. 
6.Consider non-chemical methods of control first. Can you just wash it off (you can with a light
infestation of aphids), or prune out the damage (you can with damage to Oleander by
caterpillars)? How about hand- picking those ugly worms on tomato leaves and fruit? You can
step on them or collect them in a bag and put them in the garbage. You can use a natural
control like Bacillus thuringensis (B.t.) or plain old vegetable oil from the kitchen (for scale). Try
using physical barriers like those you can use for cutworms. 
7.If non-chemical methods do not work, consider methods of chemical control. Use the right
chemical, and carefully follow label directions. Using the wrong chemical is a waste of time and
money, and it may hurt the environment. There usually is at least one or more alternative
chemical controls. Use the chemical which is the least-toxic, but which controls the pest. Use it
at the proper rate, at the right time and in the right way, etc. Do not spray the entire yard. Just
spray where the damage is observed, and a little beyond that area. 
8.Finally, if you've taken these steps, but the plant still doesn't look good, just get rid of it. Instead
of looking for stronger chemicals, look for a stronger, more-adapted plant.

Last updated on 02/17/08 11:34 AM